Using the recently released sleeved block I have gathered the parts needed to continue the build. I am straying away from the standard 2.0 4B11 specs and decided to do some experimenting with some undisclosed strokes and bores. Here are some pics highlighting the second part of the build. ENJOY

Here we are setting the piston ring end gap.

This is the cleaned block awaiting the crank. Note the AMS main studs.

The crank sensor reluctor wheel is installed on the crank and the bolts are loctited and staked so they don't come loose. Now we can do final cleaning on the crank. The crank is measured as well as the id of the main journals with the bearings installed in order to verify proper oil clearance. Then the mains are plastigauged to verify previously measured clearances.

Once the crank is torqued down the end play is measured to verify the proper thrust.

Here is our custom designed aluminum rod manufactured by BME. Aluminum rods were made to speed up the entire testing process. They are much faster to make compared to steel rods which typically take 2-3 times as long for a one off set. The piston is also a custom designed Ross piston. It utilizes AMS spec pins, ring packs, and special machining processes on the bottom side to help reduce weight.

The first piston is in!! Everything looks good it looks like I did pretty well with the math. I wont know yet but it looks like the piston is sitting right where I wanted it to compared to the deck surface. I will use a dial indicator to measure this height a little later.

Here the second piston is being installed.

All of the pistons are in and clearances have been verified.

This is the second half of the block. It is being installed and checked to make sure the crank or rods do not make contact with it. Everything looks good!!


Here are a few shots of the block with the pistons installed and some of the accessories installed. Notice the lack of timing belt. The 4b11 utilizes a timing chain! Notice the well engineered oil squirter that helps lubricate the chain.

To build the ultimate motor we decided to go ahead with development of bigger head studs. We are going to see how this works compared to o-ringing like we've done in the past to prevent blown head gaskets. We were able to utilize 13mm ARP studs. Here they are installed in the head.

Note the size difference between the OEM studs and the 13mm studs!!

Please stay tuned I will be addressing the top end of the motor in the near future.

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